Visit to Terceira, the Atlantic pearl

Shortly after landing on Terceira, 1,565 kilometers west of Lisbon in the middle of the Atlantic, your heart rate drops. Tranquility and serenity are the order of the day on the second-largest island in the Azores. The 56,000 inhabitants here lead a peaceful, almost isolated life and maintain a few ancient traditions.

By evening, however, tranquility gives way to celebration in Praça Velha, the main square of Angra do Heroísmo. Around June 24th, the city comes alive with the Sanjoaninas—the vibrant St. John’s Festival. Spanning nine festive days, it features live music, traditional dances, bouncy castles for children, and a delightful array of pop-up eateries, known locally as tascas.

For the small group of Swiss journalists and travel agency professionals, the Edelweiss inaugural flight from Zurich to Terceira and the visit to the island's capital thus takes place at the ideal time to gain a vivid impression.

Perfect Azores introduction

Designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1983, Angra do Heroísmo stands as the historic gem of the Azores. During a walking tour, guide Mário Jorge Borges Cardoso da Rosa and Sandra Lorenz—Portugal Tourism’s representative for Switzerland—bring the city’s maritime charm and colonial architecture to life. Remarkably, Angra was lovingly restored after a devastating fire in 1980.

At O Forno bakery, you can taste the traditional Dona Amélia pastry—sweet, spiced, and uniquely Terceiran. Nearby, at the Basilio Simões Irmão spice shop, Pedro Simões shares the rich history of his family’s business and proudly shows a photo from the papal visit in 1991, when John Paul II visited and blessed his son.

We wander down Rua Direita toward Praça Velha, where musicians are tuning up for the evening’s Sanjoaninas festivities. Only a few tourists dot the streets. This quiet town—home to over half the island’s population—radiates serenity. It may be too subdued for visitors used to the buzz of the Balearics or Canaries, but for those who love scenic strolls, historic charm, and a slower pace of life, Terceira offers the perfect place to unwind

The restaurants aren't dominated by tourists; our impression is that the majority of the diners are locals, and they know why. Our five restaurant stops are all fantastic – especially for meat, fish, and seafood lovers. Our tip: the tuna at Tasca das Tias in Angra, the meat dishes at Restaurant Caneta in Altares, or the fish dishes at O Pescador in Praia da Vitoria. The food alone is worth a trip to Terceira.

Varied island tour

At just 30 kilometers long and 18 wide, Terceira is smaller than Switzerland’s canton of Obwalden—and easy to explore in a single day by rental car. We’re taking a relaxed pace, starting with the island’s western half.

Our guide, Mário Borges, is full of stories, and we find ourselves stopping every 20 to 30 minutes. First, to watch the fishermen of São Mateus as they mend their nets. Later, we’re caught in a typical Terceiran traffic jam—not cars, but a herd of cows calmly crossing the road to the next pasture. It’s the perfect excuse to pause and take in the scenery. From the island’s lush interior, green fields bordered by black volcanic stone stretch gently toward the sea, where whimsical coves and fantastical rock formations meet the surf.

Soon, we stop at one of the many inviting swimming spots scattered along the volcanic coastline. Facilities are thoughtfully provided—changing rooms and restrooms are free to use, and lifeguards keep a watchful eye on the water. For the adventurous, five-meter-high rock formations offer thrilling jumps into the clear Atlantic below.

A little later, we find ourselves in a local cheese producer’s tasting room, sampling the island’s beloved Queijo Vaquinha. The flavor is so delicate and creamy, we order a second round without hesitation.

Smoke signals and cave passages

The next day, we explore the north and east of the island. A highlight is Biscoitos: first, we marvel at the Zona Balnear dos Biscoitos, a bathing area also built in a volcanic landscape, with numerous entrances, loungers, and pools. In the same town, we visit the wine producer Materramenta, which cultivates traditional wines protected by volcanic rocks.

Soon, smoke rises and the smell of sulfur fills the air: we're standing in the Furnas do Enxofre. We walk the circular trail to the steaming fumaroles, a regional natural monument.

Back on the bus, we're soon immersed in fog. The weather on Terceira changes very quickly. Tour guide Mario encourages us, saying, «Summer will be back in ten minutes.» Indeed, the skies are opening up again, but first we climb underground, into the Algar do Carvão volcanic cave. Lava was still active here 1,700 to 2,100 years ago; for amateur geologists, this visit is a must – we're given helmets to protect ourselves from the jagged stalactites.

Every hour we experience new highlights: soon we're standing at the Miradouro da Serra do Cume, the most beautiful viewpoint on the island. The fog is rolling in again, the wind is whistling around our ears, but the view is still very impressive across the green patchwork of fields down to the sea.

For nature lovers – without stress

Back in the minibus, we chat about our recent impressions. Marcel Rancetti from Mawi Reisen says: «I really like Terceira – the island is green and diverse. Hikers, in particular, will find their money's worth here; mountains and sea lie side by side, and the island is characterized by its many flowers.» However, one must be prepared for the rapid changes in weather.

Carmine Bernardo, Azores expert at Globetrotter Travel Service, has visited the archipelago many times. He describes Terceira as similar to São Miguel, just smaller and with fewer hotels. «Those who spend a few days or a week here exploring nature by rental car will find plenty to enjoy,» he says. His motto for Terceira? «Enjoy at leisure, without stress.»

We couldn’t agree more. A visit to Terceira is rich in variety. The island—and its warm, welcoming people—radiates calm. Whether you’re hiking one of the twelve marked trails, relaxing in nature, or seeking gentle adventure, active relaxation is the spirit of the place. Bonus tip: don’t miss the whale watching.

Terceira offers an experience that is both diverse and deeply relaxing. The island—and its warm, welcoming people—radiates tranquility. Whether you're seeking active rest or quiet exploration, Terceira delivers. Hike one of the twelve well-marked trails, breathe in the fresh Atlantic air, or simply let the landscape soothe you. Whale watching is also highly recommended.

Until September 10, Edelweiss flies to Terceira every Wednesday, combinable with the Friday flight to Ponta Delgada, the capital of the neighboring island of São Miguel.